May 2008 Lease Rate for 08 Infiniti G35/G37

2008 Infiniti G35 Journey Sedan
24 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 70% of MSRP – .00126 Base Rate
36 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 60% of MSRP – .00150 Base Rate

2008 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan
24 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 69% of MSRP – .00126 Base Rate
36 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 59% of MSRP – .00150 Base Rate

2008 Infiniti G35 X Sedan
24 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 71% of MSRP – .00131 Base Rate
36 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 61% of MSRP – .00150 Base Rate

2008 Infiniti G37 Coupe
24 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 74% of MSRP – .00184 Base Rate
36 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 63% of MSRP – .00192 Base Rate

2008 Infiniti G37 Journey Coupe
24 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 72% of MSRP – .00184 Base Rate
36 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 62% of MSRP – .00192 Base Rate

2008 Infiniti G37 Sport Coupe
24 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 74% of MSRP – .00184 Base Rate
36 Month/12k miles/yr – Residual 63% of MSRP – .00192 Base Rate

Here are more rates (added 5/12/08):

G37 Base
39mo/15k – money factor 0.00190 – residual 61% .Base Rate

You should be able to estimate the residuals for the G35/G37 journey and sport (+/- 1% or 2%) by looking at the other numbers posted.

My Thoughts: The rates have dropped a tiny bit compared to last month. The problem is that the residuals have dropped some as well. Overall, payments should be around $10 less than last month. So things are definitely getting cheaper, the question is, is it going to get cheaper next month?

Auto Insurance, Are You In Good Hands?

When it comes to leasing, you gotta have 100k/300k coverage as the bare minimum. If you own a home, you probably want more than that. If you rent, you have no choice but to have at least that. The one part of leasing that somewhat annoys me is that because lessees tend to switch cars every 3-4 years, you will be pay insurance premium for new to 4 year old cars. That essentially means you pay more. Here is an example:

When it comes to insurance premiums, it is not solely based on your driving record, but it’s also on the value of your car. During a six-year span, the average 36-month lessee will go through two cars. A buyer on the other hand, can easily keep it for 6 years (most loans are at least 5 yrs nowadays). Since premium are based mostly on the value of the vehicle, as the car depreciates, your premiums drop (assuming a perfect driving record during that time period).

So who is insuring you anyway?

I have had five auto insurance companies insure me since I was 16 years old. First was Farmer Insurance, then AAA (Auto Club of So Cal), Progressive, Mercury and Wawanesa.

Farmers Insurance

I never had to place a claim through them, but my premium was very high because I was a 16 year old teenager. I do know one thing, we didn’t like our agent, he was a scheming little weasel of a man that didn’t return phone calls and kept raising rates.

AAA – Auto Club of So Cal

They where actually pretty decent, I believe I was 20 years old or so when I switch to them. I went through one claim through them and they responded very well when it came to getting my damage appraised and repaired. My biggest beef with them was that they did not follow through in pursuing the other party and see compensation for the damages. They just assumed I was a fault. It was a complicated situation (the car was damaged during transportation), and perhaps I should have try to settled this with the transportation company personally. However, I am was paying AAA to represent me and they failed to deliver. Also, you need to be an Auto Club member, so take on a yearly membership fee to that. I like AAA member services, but I’m not huge on their auto insurance.

Progressive

I had them for about two years and I think their service is unrivaled. They were awesome in terms of customer service. Hit-and-run situation, no problem, they took care of it. Hit a deer on the highway, no problem, sent an appraiser out to look at the damage on the same day. I moved to California (I was in NY at the time) my rate DOUBLED. They aren’t the cheapest around, and they never really gave me quotes from other “competitors”, but I forgive them because of the excellent care they provided during the time I had them. I guess you get what you pay for.

Mercury Insurance (Auto Insurance Specialists)

I actually didn’t know how I end up with these guys. I went to an AIS office to sign up for auto insurance, since in their commercials, they claim to shop your quote around and find the lowest one. They are brokers, so they I ended up giving me Mercury. Their rates were pretty cheap compared to Progressive, so I went ahead with them since I had just leased my BMW 325i and was already paying a hefty monthly payment. I actually kept them until Feb 2008, when a friend of mind recommended me Wawanesa (more on them later).

Mercury (and AIS) suck. They are cheap, but not cheapest. Like their commercials say, they probably are from the planet Mercury because they all sound like aliens instead of humans. I went through two claims with them, both in which I was not at fault, and their case managers spoke to us like they are reading from a script. When we called them, 90% of the calls went to voicemail. They wouldn’t return calls in a timely manner. Heck, I even wrote a nasty letter to them about my experience and all I got was an apology over the phone. Thats it. I stuck with them because they where cheap, so yes, you do get what you pay for.

Wawanesa Mutual Insurance

Notice I put a link on the title? I’m recommending them obviously. I’ll start with the bad, which is the fact that they only cover Oregon and California residents. I switched in Feb 2008 per the recommendation of a friend who enjoyed their quick responsive service and low prices. Low price indeed. They don’t quote the 6-month premiums, instead they quote you for the whole year. My 6-month quote for Mercury was around $900-$1000 ($2000 a year). The quote I got from Wawanesa was $1485 a year. Need I say more? Well, I do actually, I just hope that service is as good as my friend says it is, but other than that, I feel I got a great deal, saved a bunch of money and feel that I’m in good hands…for the time being.

Quick thought here…Insurance companies that advertise a lot tend to have higher premiums due to their advertising costs. Companies like Wawanesa rely on word-of-mouth, which is why their rates are so low. If you don’t live in California or Oregon, try asking friends and family about their insurance carrier. Find out what their experiences are and what their premiums are, it just might save you some money if you ask the right person.

New Quotes Are In. The List Narrows.

First things first. I got quotes for the Mazda CX-7 GT and the Honda Accord V6 Coupe. Here is the quick breakdown:

CX-7 GT FWD

Term- 36mo/12k miles/yr
MSRP – $31,740
Cap Cost- $29,064 ($30 bucks over invoice, nice)
Residual- 54%
MF- 0.00094
Other- $750 rebate (altho I’m now told is $700, fiiiisshhhy)

Honda Accord V6 Coupe

Term- 36mo/12k miles/yr
MSRP- $28,945
Cap Cost- $26970 ($700 over invoice, I think they could do better, this ain’t no BMW after all)
Residual- 58%
MF- 0.00245 (5.88%, oh that hurts so bad)

You can see the drive-off and the monthly numbers on the “Recent Quotes” panel on the right hand side of this page.

My thoughts…I would have pulled off the deal for the Accord Coupe TODAY if the MF was lower (around 2-2.5%) and if they would get a bit closer to invoice (maybe no more than $200 over). But alas, you can’t have it all and I have no intention to negotiate at the moment. The thing is, even if I pushed for invoice on the Accord, I’d still be paying $399 after taxes. The Acura TL is still looking mighty fine right about now.

As far as narrowing the list, I’ve canned the Lexus IS250 because all local Lexus dealer sites don’t show inventory online, so I can’t get a “realistic” quote for a specific car they have on their lot. Plus, its sorta underpowered in my opinion.

My goal is to get the best ride for $400 a month after tax. Right now, pretty much all quotes I’ve gotten, except for the TL, are WAY over. I got some wiggle room though, I don’t need a 12k mile lease, I can do 10k since I live pretty close to work (12 mile round trip), I am willing to pay all fees upfront (1st month, tags, doc, bank fee, tires, etc…) as long as it doesn’t exceed $1200. So with a little help from the Money Factor and Residual faeries, I think I can pull this off.

Who’s In:
G37
G35
TL
Accord Cpe (still in, for now, I really dig the looks)
CX-7 GT (I might opt for the Touring or Sport to cut costs if necessary)
Who’s Out:
G8
IS250
Altima Cpe
Camry SE

The Infiniti EX35 looks sort of lease worth right now, so I might inquire about it.
Stay tuned!

May 2008 Lease Rate for 08 Mazda CX-7 GT

36mo/12k miles/yr – residual 54% – 0.00094 MF.
plus a $750 rebate.

My Thoughts: Not a bad time to pull the trigger on this ride, the interest rate is low, the residual is acceptable plus the $750 rebate helps bump up the residual a cool 2%. One thing to note, this puppy gets pretty crummy MPG, 17/23. Then again, it is an SUV after all.

I had originally posted the March numbers HERE on my old blog. They look improved. The MF dropped and the rebate went up $500 bucks.

Another thing, I’m told this lasts until June 30th.

VIDEO: Great Fuel Saving Tips!

This is a great video made by the folks at MyRide.com. It contains excellent fuel saving tips, so it’s worth checking. However, if you are too lazy to bother, I’ll summarize:

  • Keep your car maintained properly. Tire pressure, oil changes, filters, etc…
  • Don’t drive too fast (keep it under 60).
  • Stop-n-Go driving burns through gas faster than you can say “Chevron”.

That’s pretty much the gist of it. As I mentioned last month, $4+ gas will be the norm by Memorial weekend so get used to it. Oil companies still have no shame and I hope you got some of those stocks in your portfolio.

Lastly, I got a couple of things to add to the list:

  • If you commute daily, try to work from home once a week. That should save you about a weeks worth of gas per month.
  • I love torque and acceleration as much as the next guy, but sometimes, you just need to know that racing from one stop sign to the next does not make you cool, it makes you stupid.
  • Get a new job thats closer to home. My wife works about 22 miles from home, in the heart of Downtown Los Angeles. She commutes 5 times a week, not to mention visiting clients and what not. I’ve been harassing her about for some time now and I know its not easy, but you better start looking if you want to save some green.

The General loses $3.3 BILLION in First-Quarter

I don’t really know how to react to this bit news today. Part of me feels like this is a classic story of Retribution, while the other feels sorry for the good blue-collar folks that might be losing their jobs because GM execs are complete retards. Retribution because of all the garbage, we as consumers, have purchased in the last few decades with our hard-earned money. The excessive rebadging, the sea of cheap interior plastic, poor MPG and substandard designs on all their line up has essentially caught up with GM. It’s not to say they aren’t trying, but I feel that damage has been done and recovering from it is going to take a long of time.

I am not be a GM executive nor do I play one on this blog, but I can tell one thing I do know: I’m consumer and I haven’t been very crazy about their line up for some time. As a matter of fact, outside of the Corvette (which still suffers from poor interior design) and maybe the Australian G8, I don’ really like any of their cars. Less Americans buying American, now THAT’S an American Revolution folks!

Here is the complete story from The Los Angeles Times

How can GM fix this? Lets start with better lease rates!!! Such horrible lease programs tell me one thing; you don’t even want your cars back, so why would I want to even buy it? Build better cars, cut back on rental fleet sales to improve residuals (yup, I don’t want the same car next to me be a rental from Enterprise). Then work on more innovative design and alternative fuel vehicles. They’ve made strides with Saturn, Cadillac and maybe even GMC but there is plenty of room for improvement.

Turn-in Inspections SUCK!

On Monday I called up my leasing bank (US Bank) and request for a turn-in inspection. I’m about 2.5 months from the last payment of my lease, so I figured that it’d be safe to do it. Oh boy was I wrong! They told me that I have to be within 45 days of turn-in date and the inspection is only valid for up to 60 days. I don’t understand why there’s that 2-month window if I can’t turn it in any sooner than 45 days before the turn-in date. Basically, I have to have pay-off the entire lease before I can actually get my inspection. So if i want to get it inspected now, I have to payoff the balance of the loan. That really pisses me off. This pretty much ruins my plan you see. I was trying to do find out how much damage and wear and tear I’m responsible for and see if it makes more sense to trade-in the car (and take some negative equity if necessary) instead of waiting until lease end and paying for the disposition fee ($395) and whatever damage/wear and tear there is. Normally, I take excellent care of my rides, but the Mazda3 in particular went through an accident 1 week after I got it, wasn’t put back together properly (Curse you Mercury Insurance and your cheap repair shops). Add in the fact that it’s been dinged to death in parking lots and this ride just makes my blood boil, not in a good way.