Hello everyone! Please note the following:
- I do not respond to requests for numbers. All numbers I have are posted.
- This is the LAST MONTH for the “suggest brands to track” voting. If you haven’t done so, please do so before the 30th. VOTE HERE.
Below is another question I have for everyone:
Does RWG need a mobile app and would you pay for one?
- No. This blog is just fine (48%, 196 Votes)
- Yes, but it should free (29%, 116 Votes)
- Yes. I would pay a small one-time fee (21%, 86 Votes)
- Yes. I would pay a small monthly fee for advance features (2%, 7 Votes)
Total Voters: 405
Loading ...Android or iPhone?
- iPhone first! (68%, 201 Votes)
- Android first! (32%, 96 Votes)
Total Voters: 297
Loading ...Click Here To Discuss The Mobile App!
Support my site by getting your “no obligation” quotes from:
TrueCar.com
CarsDirect.com
LEASE RATES HAVE BEEN REMOVED. LEASE RATE POSTING HAS BEEN SUSPENDED INDEFINITELY.
Any info. for 2013 320i xDrive?? Thanks
Thanks for the rates, bummer there is still no 2014 X5 rates. Anyone got any idea when we will be getting these?
Hi,
What are the September money factors & residuals on 2013 ActiveHybrid5 and ActiveHybrid3?
Thanks for all you do!
NOT making a request, BUT does ANYBODY know if the turbo diesel BMW’s are given similar RV’s? I drove the 328d and it was pretty impressive, but I have no clue what to expect when I negotiate terms
I love your site and all the info it provides! I’m interested in purchasing a pre-owned BMW 750Li. Financially speaking, what’s the best time to purchase this car and keep it for say 3-4 years and then sell it? I don’t want to lease a brand new one because of the huge depreciation, but I would like a new model car that will retain most of it’s value after 3-4 years. My reasoning is that the monthly cost (after 36 or 48 months) will be lower than the monthly lease on a new car, but after how many years do these cars depreciate the greatest? Sorry for the long-winded question!
This always depends on a lot of factors. You should compute what a lease will cost over 3 years (incl taxes and fees). Then compute what the buy option will cost using numbers from NADA or another trusted source. You should find that buying a used car every three years is going to cost more if you include maintenance (you almost certainly going to need new brakes and tires on the used vehicle about 1yr after you buy it). Common exceptions to the rule include driving lots of miles or very few miles.
Rama, I would say 3 years is a good time. Close to half of the vehicles depreciated would have depreciated by then. Edmund has a nice little chart for stuff like this: http://www.edmunds.com/bmw/7-series/2013/tco.html?style=200429764
It’s not 100% accurate but it gives you an idea as to which years depreciate the worse. Typically the first year and second year, then it flattens out a bit.
Man G, you have done it again…how did I not know about that chart at Edmunds!? That’s amazing.
Thanks!
Hey G,
I noticed that BMW is offering a lot of BUILD OUT CASH on 2013 models this month. My question is do these types of incentives (i.e. Build Out Cash, Loyalty Cash, etc) from the manufacturer only apply to the MSRP price or can a buyer/leasee still negotiate the sale price below MSRP and then add these incentives to further discount it on top of that?
Regards,
Jonny
I typically ask folks to negotiate prices PLUS manufacturer discounts/rebates. Remember, incentives are from the manufacturer, not the dealer. Dealers are separate business entities from the manufacturer, so you have to negotiate the sale price with the dealer and then tack on the discounts from the manufacturer.
Thanks G! I’m going to try to hold out until October to see if they offer better MF and build out cash on the 2013s then.
Just remember that at some point BMW is going to put their subsidy money behind the 2014s. The 2013s will have discounted prices until they are all out teh door, but the MF (and APR on the buying side) won’t be so great…although BMW MF isn’t very great to begin with…so maybe I’m wrong.
The residuals on the 2014 335i xDrive are about as bad as I can remember (54% and .00125). They were actually better last month, so I’m absolutely hoping you’re right and that BMWFS will make the MF more attractive to help out.
Any thoughts about what caused the lowering of the residuals this month, or is that just normal for this time of year? Once I put down my MSDs, the most important thing is the residual…Ughh — I hate the game!
I have no inside info, but Occam’s Razor leads me to conclude that they want to push people into the remaining 2013 cars. BMW doesn’t seem to vary the MF much, so that leaves the RV and rebates to play with. Lowering the RV on the 2014 is a much more profitable option that adding more rebates to the 2013s so long as the demand is there.
Great thanks for the feedback G keep up the good work!
Any #’s for the Active5?
I’ve read the stat sheets, but can anyone provide me with real world experienced feedback on leg room between the 3series sedans, A4 sedans, IS250, and C250’s?
each car seems to have it’s own advantage and disadvantage, hard to choose one
thanks
I thinking is that if you are shopping for either of those models, you shouldn’t expect much in terms of rear-leg room. For real leg-room, you need to go up a level. If I were to guess which one had the most legroom though, I’d say the A4. I’ve seen the IS and the C-Class. Not much there.
Can you please post October Residuals? Also, I’ve noticed some of the residuals you posted are for 2012MY, why aren’t all residuals for 2014MY?
Hello, I’m on the fence between a ’13 x5 35i premium and a ’14 luxury line. Discounts on the ’13 are obviously good right now, but a couple of factors have me wondering just how much cheaper they end up being in a lease:
1. I can save $1000 or so on the new one by build in it with only what I want, nothing I don’t want
2. Current lease has me with -1000 equity, buyout vs trade in (offsetting the drive event credit that I can’t use on a ’14)
3. Residual on the ’14’s is higher
4. In February, I’ll qualify for the $1000 BMW CCCA credit.
Based on all of this, I am figuring a monthly difference of about $30-40. That assumes a $3000 discount, plus $1000 BMWCCA and $1000 loyalty. It also assumes a 61% RV and .00125 MF for a 10k/year lease on the ’14.
Any advice? For 30 bucks a month, I’d prefer the new model. Do my expectations seem reasonable? It amounts to a $630 a month lease on a 60,275 MSRP for the ’14 with taxes and fees paid up front, no other down payment beyond the incentives and rebates. If you think 3k is more discount than I can expect before rebates, how long do you think it will take to get that kind of discount (and will RV’s go down to offset it?)?
Thanks very much for all of the useful information.
I think $3k on a 2014 before rebates may be too aggressive of an assumption. May be more attainable on a 2013 in my opinion, but still quite aggressive. BMW dealers typically do not discount below or at invoice (before rebates).