47 thoughts on “2011 BMW Lease Rates – September 2010”

1. Is the 335i convertible residual of 61% correct? It was 64% in August. I’m glad I ordered last month if so.

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   • BT looks like the numbers are legit. Glad you ordered when you did. That 3% residual should be significant when it comes time to calculate your payments.

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2. I believe i did fairly well on it. I got the 64% residual and used 7 MSDs to get the .002 rate down to .00151. This was what we agreed on to place the order:

   335i convertible

   36/15K
   64%
   .00151

   MSRP: $64,175
   Sell Price: $58,275 (includes $1305 auto tranny credit)

   Rolled In Fees: $899.83
   (This includes the first $725 security deposit, which several dealers in my state said was required by BMW to roll in, and $174.83 in other fees that I could not identify)

   Cap Reduction: $725 (The rolled in fee)

   Net Cap: $58,449.83

   State Tax: 7%

   Payment: $677.31

   Drive Off is about $7678 with 7 MSDs + 1st month + $725 + tax/title

   I think the deal is fairly good. There were a few unknown amounts that I could have pushed them on, but I thought the discount off the MSRP was big enough that I probably should not. I’ll post the final details when it comes in. Dealer said it would be around 8 weeks. I got a production order # from them and set up an account on BMWUSA’s website to track it. It will probably come in mid-October. Maybe the rates will be better then, but I doubt it.

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   • good deal BT. I like it. I doubt the numbers will improve come October. If anything, I think it will stay the same as this month. Either way, I’m glad BMWFS allows people to lock in rates during the month they order. That makes it relatively risk-free.

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3. This was one of the reasons I decided on the BMW over a MB. I don’t know if it was true or not, but I was told by a MB dealer that if you place an order the rate would not be locked in. I don’t know how you could place an order for something and be subject to some unknown terms.

   In regards to MACO, this dealer said that they did not participate in MACO, so maybe it’s optional for some dealers depending on state laws and such.

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4. What I meant was that the total drive off is about $7678. When I read the post again, I thought it sounded as though the other amounts were added to the $7678.

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5. Ok G,
   So I took your advice and I did not lease the MB E Class we spoke of and I am on to the next potential deal. Here is goes, what do you think?

   528i
   Prem 2 pkge
   Prem 1 pkge
   Conv pkge
   Xenon lights
   Phone integration
   Total Invoice: $49,585
   Fees Added: $875 Destination
   $350 MACO
   Dealer Service Fee $200
   Total Invoice w/ Fees: $51,010
   Selling Price: $51,210
   They are giving me 61% Residual and .0027 MF (they claim .0023 is only for current BMWFS client i.e. Loyalty Rate)
   I am doing 36 months with only inceptions … They have not given me payment yet ..What do you think of deal and what should payment be ?

   Thanks !

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   • hey scott. couple things…
     -the MF can be had as a new customer, so that’s a flat out lie. You may have to put down a security deposit, but the base rate can be had without any problems as long as your credit is perfect. Start cross-checking with other deals.
     -the MACO…either demand it to be waived or find another dealer that is willing to do so. Many folks have gotten it waived so we know that fee isn’t required.
     -Dealer service fee is the dealer doc fee? double check. You don’t want to get hit twice.
     -Inception fees don’t include destination, that should be included as part of the sale price quote and MSRP.
     -What are they charging you for bank fee? it should be $725, any more, then they are padding it.
     Here are my assumptions:

     MSRP $56325
     Sale Price $51210
     Estimated inception fees: $1800-$2000
     Monthly $664 + tax
     MF .00230
     Residual 61%

     The lease is not great because of the high money factor. In order to get a great lease, you have to have a high residual, low money factor and a low sale price. In this case, you have a very good residual, a good price, but a high money factor. So in other words, this isn’t that much better than the E350. If you have extra cash to put down, I would recommend taking the maximum amount allowed on MSDs in order to lower your money factor. You will get your security deposits back at lease end (or in the event the vehicle is lost/totaled) so the risk is small and you can save some cash. This can drop your interest rate so it will save you some money.

     I recommend pushing for the base rate no matter what. because it is clear that they are padding it for profit.

     If all fails, there are other option. You can probably get a loaded Infiniti M37 for less. I know, its not a BMW or MB, but it’s comparable. You could also look at the A6 as well.

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6. Thanks G, you are great. I pushed back a bit and did not like what I got as an answer. I then switched over to a “broker” my buddy used and things are going smoothly so far. By the way, in doing business with the broker, the traditional “Dealer Fee” is waived. My car is the same but here are the new stats:

   MSRP including Destination: $54,875
   Purchase Price including Destination: $51,660
   No other fees due including no MACO, Training or Dealer Fee
   Total Out of Pocket: $1,555,29 (this consists of First Payment, Acq Fee of $725 and other incidentals)

   MF: .00245 (I have the option of making $800 SD which would lower rate to .0023)
   Residual: 61%
   36 months
   12k miles
   Payment before tax: $715.30
   Payment After Tax: $761.79

   What do you think ?

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   • Scott,
     I don’t see the difference since we’re basically pinching pennies here. Since your first quote didn’t include a MSRP or a quoted payment, I had to guess as to what your payments were. I came away with $664 + tax a month using a “best case scenario” approach. Now, if I were to assuming the MSRP on your first quote was $56325 and I rolled in your MACO and dealer fee in, you’d be looking at a monthly payment of around $709 + tax per month. The new quote from the broker is higher than both my estimates, at $715 per month. Here in lies the problem, the cars you’ve picked so far have HIGH interest rates, so it doesn’t matter whether it’s the E350 or the 528, your savings are being wiped out by the interest rate being charged to finance the loan. It looks like you don’t have a lot of options if you want either a E350 or a 528 because they both lease rather badly right now. If you are looking to make the best out of a though situation, go with the 528 and pony up more money in the form of MULTIPLE SECURITY DEPOSITS. Put as may as you can so the money factor lowers. If it’s still too expensive for you, look at something else.

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7. I understand, thank you……

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8. I really tried to make a deal work on a 2010 E350 coupe, but the rates just suck on it. The dealers I worked with actually came down a fair amount on the price and were offering me what they thought was a “great” deal. I just could not do it because the payment was so much higher on a car that had an MSRP 10k-12k lower than the 335i conv I ultimately went with.

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   • yeah, sometimes, no matter how much you want something, the number simply don’t add up. I always find these types of questions difficult to answer because I don’t like to shatter anyone’s dream. At the same time, I can’t get myself to say that a lease with an MF of 0.0025 is a great deal because that generally isn’t the case.

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9. Hi G

   Received the folloing from local dealer:
   2011 328I auto + premium
   MSRP: $38050
   Sell: $35670 + tax n lic
   with 1500 drive off
   monthly payment $424 + tax = 465
   36 month / 12000 miles a year. residual is 63%
   MF: .00130

   I was asking to see if I can put down SD to buy down the MF, the replied is “no
   -because security deposit is wavied as a special for 328 sedan”….is it the fact? or they just BS.

   Please advise.

   Thanks a lot

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   • DCS, feel free to point your dealer to the following website regarding MSDs: http://fs.bmwusa.com/BMWFSPulp/VEHLEA_PaymentOptions.htm

     As for your deal, whats the amount of tax and license being rolled in? what’s your tax rate?

     Right now I’m getting $402 a month, but no “tax n lic” fees or sales taxes are being added. I’m inclined to say that the aren’t any miscalculations on the quote, but you need to have the dealer itemize the fees so you can get a feel for what’s being charged. The sale price is fair so no complaints. Just rediscuss the MSDs option because the BMW finance website offers that option. Whether the security deposit is waived or not, should have no baring on this. Remember, specifically ask the dealer for MULTIPLE SECURITY DEPOSITS. Not a Security deposit.

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10. Hi G:

    Thanks a lot. I’m in CA and the tax rate is 9.75%. and the quote is included tax+lic, In this case, does the payment of $465 make sense?
    Another question is that what’s the different b/w bank fee and destination fee? are they the same fee just have different wording? and is it $725 or $875?

    Thank you

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    • dcs, you said the 35670 did not include tax n lic, but the $465 does. is that correct? in order to get an estimate, you need to know what the gross cap cost is. meaning, the sale price + whatever fees you are rolling into your lease loan. My estimate of $402 doesn’t include the fees rolled in, that’s why its less. find out what else is rolled in with the sale price so you can determine if you are being overcharged or not.
      regarding the bank fee and destination, those are two different fees. One is transportation of the vehicle (destination) and the other is the cost for the bank to process your application (bank fee), this fee also includes GAP coverage.
      if this is the first time you are leasing, have the dealer break down all the fees. What’s being rolled into the lease and what’s being paid upfront. This is good practice so you can see the break down of how leases work. You can have the dealer print out their worksheet so you can see what’s being charged.

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11. Hi G:

    thanks a lot for the info. nevertheless, I tried to ask the dealers to send the lease workout sheet via e-mail, none of them are willing to do it. Is it the normal practice not send out the worksheet vai e-mail?

    Thanks

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    • probably not via email, you would probably need to go in for that.

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12. hey all Im new here…just received a quote from a dealer.
    can you look at this deal?
    2011 BMW 335 convertable

    Base Price $51,200.00
    0205 STEPTRONIC Automatic Transmission 1,375.00
    0ZPP Premium Package 1,650.00
    0ZMP M Sports Package (7XA required w/ 205) 3,000.00
    0609 Navigation System 2,100.00
    07XA M Sports Steering Wheel/Paddle Shifters 100.00

    Destination and Handling 875.00

    TOTAL AS EQUIPPED $60,300.00
    SELLING PRICE $56,795.00

    Mileage 12,000/year
    Money Factor 2.35
    Residual Factor 63%

    Selling Price $56,795.00
    Bank Fee $925.00

    Monthly Payment + Tax $840.64

    License & Registration $763.75
    Documentation Fee $45.00
    First Payment $840.64
    Security Deposit $0.00

    Drive Off $1,653.32

    i think a dealer made something weird cuz the monthly pay is too high.
    thank you in advance.

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13. woo,
    I think the lease is expensive. First, the sale price is a bit high in my opinion. I wouldn’t go higher than $500 over invoice on any BMW at the moment. Second, you are being overcharged on the bank fee by $200. Third, the money factor is insanely high.
    Dealers almost always calculate payments to be higher because their system is set up to yield the highest payments (like how fees and taxes are rolled in an calculated) and also because there are probably some fees you don’t know about.
    Overall, I wouldn’t lease this because I think you are overpaying.

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14. thank you …G
    I will forget about this deal

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15. Hey All:
    Just an FYI for anyone that has ordered a BMW,
    your MF may have improved in the past week!
    I was notified today that mine improved 25bps on the 528 I ordered. Good luck to all.

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16. Hey G let me know what you think about this deal I’ve Been offered:

    2011 740LI
    MSRP $94,625
    Final Negotiated price $87835
    MF .0021
    RES 57%
    12K Miles per year
    36 Months
    Fees to roll in $1474
    Base Payment $1283.39
    Payment with tax $1360.39

    Dealer wants first month plus $520.49 fee. so basically $1880.88 drive off. I’m having my salesman email me a break down off all fees now. Two other dealers in my area told me they can’t match that deal by a long shot and that I should jump on it.

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    • Joseph,
      The 740LI, in general, is not the best lease because there isn’t any support on it (by this, I mean the money factor is a bit high). However, the sale price is indeed very good. Once you have your sales guy break down the fees, review them and make sure there aren’t any “unexplainable” fees. Again, if you are looking for a “deal” of the year, this one probably doesn’t rank well on that list. If you are looking to get the best price you can get right now, this isn’t bad at all.

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17. Hey G!

    First of all – thanks for everything you do on this site…it makes researching and leasing SO much easier!

    Please tell me if this is a deal I should look to make:

    BMW 335i Sedan — Manual Transmission

    Base Price: $37,350
    Heated Steering Wheel: $175
    Heated Front Seats: $455
    Navigation System: $1,910
    Satellite Radio: $320
    Comfort Access Keyless Entry: $455
    Montego Blue – Metallic: $500
    Split Fold-Down Seats: $430
    Premium Package: $2,410
    iPod/USB Integration: $365
    Destination & Handling: $875

    Total Invoice (Agreed on by dealer): $45,245.00
    Agreed upon price ($300 over Invoice): $45,545.00

    MACO Fee: $380
    Service Training Fee: $200
    Bank Fee: $725
    Dealer Doc Fee: $55
    License Fee: $617
    Tire Fee: $8.75
    Misc Smog Fee: $30.00
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    Are those all legitimate fees that I should be willing to pay?

    Down Payment (I know you don’t recommend it): $3,500
    Residual: 59%
    Money Factor: .00155 (.00145 increased to .00155 — Addtional $8.02/mo)
    Total Payment: $582.79/mo

    It all feels alright, but I don’t love all of those fees. Euro delivery is on the table right now, but I don’t know if I can swing the time off from work…the $3,000 over the course of the lease that I can is nice though!

    Anyways — all of your help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!!

    – Brian

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    • Brian,
      What Jon posted earlier is probably a great guide for you to use on your negotiations. Clearly you are overpaying still and need to negotiate the price down, request the base rate and get some fees waived. Remember to avoid down payments. Instead, opt for Multiple Security Deposits, which BMWFS offers.

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18. Brian,

    Please read my previous post regarding a deal I brokered for my friend at the end of last August:

    “36 month/12k year Lease on a 2011 335xi AWD 6MT Sedan

    MSRP: $44,875 (with options – Cold Weather Pkg, Metallic Paint, Satellite Radio)
    Sale Price: $41,000 (includes $1840 Cash to Customer Incentive on AWD Models)
    Acquisition Fee: $725
    Cap Cost: $41,725

    Residual: 61%
    MF: .001797

    Tax: 5.6%
    Title: $69.50
    License: $0 (Transferring Plates which saved $95.00)
    Dealer Doc Fee: $50

    Monthly Payment: $552.10 (including tax)
    Due at Signing: $671.60 ($552.10 First Payment + $50 Doc Fee & $69.50 Title Fee)

    NO DOWNPAYMENT
    NO SECURITY DESPOSIT
    NO MACO FEE
    NO TRAINING FEE

    Some words of advice, which I think have been expressed here before:
    1) Always wait till the end of a month to begin negotiations on a deal. Dealers need to move cars and meet their quotas. End of August/Labor Day seems to be a really good time to close a deal – tons of sales, incentives, etc.

    2) Check for incentives on http://www.edmunds.com. There was/is an $1840 BMW Cash to Customer incentive on all AWD models. Make sure to take advantage of these when negotiating your sale price. Do NOT lease off MSRP. That’s what all those advertised lease deals are structured on. Negotiate a sale price as if buying.

    3) Use http://www.truecar.com as a negotiating tool for sales prices and leverage. This website is awesome. Even if there isn’t a dealer in your area that is http://www.truecar.com certified, you can still see if other dealers will beat or match that no haggle sales price.

    4) Email multiple dealers and use their offers against each other. This works great for areas with multiple dealerships of the same car manufacturer. (i.e. Chicago area BMW dealerships)

    5) Have the dealer email you the lease worksheet and use G’s lease calculator – it’s an invaluable tool – to double check the numbers.”

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19. Jon and G,

    Thanks a ton for your replies!

    Thank you for the breakdown of the deal you negotiated — it gives me hope that perhaps I can have a few fees waived. As for approaching as if I’m buying, that is exactly what I did. I have the Confidential Wholesale sheet for the 335i Sedan, and all of my #s are worked from there. We started at invoice and added $300. This is confirmed on Truecar, which I also used.

    Also, I built spreadsheets with side-by-side comparisons of MSRP, Invoice, Invoice +$300 and Euro Delivery +$300. My #s equal out to G’s spreadsheet to the penny, so I assume we’re using the same formulas.

    The price that I have posted is $300 over invoice, again — confirmed by the BMW Wholesale pricing sheet and TrueCar. I think the only thing that needs to be negotiated are the fees. What is a $617 License fee? Does this seem odd to you as well? That seems to be the one that sticks out most for me. I will obviously fight to have the MACO and Service Training Fees waived, and go elsewhere if they will not, but I feel confident that my pricing on the car can’t go much further. The dealer did call me yesterday to correct the doc fee, which is $45 on a lease (originally we were pricing as if to purchase, so it was $55).

    I do have another dealership working on the same quote, and I’ll see what fees I receive from him, but I prefer to stay loyal to those that are giving me their time. I look forward to your respons(es)!

    – Brian

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    • Brian, If the sale price is as low as you can get it, then work on getting the MACO and Training waived. The license fee is from DMV, so you can’t get that waived. At your car’s price tag, that sounds about right. The doc fee is legitimate as well, leases are $45 and purchases are $55. I’m glad in CA it’s capped because some states don’t and dealers really nail you on that. Lastly your money factor is higher that posted, which means the dealer has padded it. There shouldn’t be a reason why you can’t qualify for the base rate right now (unless you have less than 700 credit score). The “no security deposit” promo is still going on so you shouldn’t need one to get the base rate.

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20. Thanks for your prompt reply. I really appreciate it. Here is the break down of the fees.

    Up Front Fees:
    Title Fee $450
    Florida Lease Fee $70.49

    Capped Fees:
    Assignment $925
    Dealer Services Fee $549

    Does this look right to you? BTW thanks for this amazing site it has really made my leasing experience much more enjoyable.

    Thank You,
    Joseph

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    • no problem Joseph,
      What’s the assignment fee? If that’s the Bank Acquisition, it should be $725, not $925. Please double check. Other than that, it sounds about right. I know FL doesn’t have a capped Dealer fee, so they kind of fleece you on that. You could negotiate it, but I haven’t heard of anyone successfully doing it yet.
      Glad you enjoy the site. My goal is simple, teach people how to lease, so they don’t get screwed. Haahaa.

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21. Brian,

    I would only pay for tax, title and license plates at lease inception and dealer doc fee. Don’t put any money down and get those other fees waived. Although smog and tire might be mandatory living in SoCal, right?

    I think those training fees are for them to take the time to show you how to use the car’s nav, etc. My dad bought a 2010 M3 in South Florida and they tried to pull that.

    What’s your monthly payment WITHOUT putting the $3500 down? Your money factor is actually slightly lower than what my friend had for his 2011 335xi.

    Do what G says here… if you are gonna put money down, do it as multiple security deposits to lower your payments. You get this money back at the end of the lease. I vote against putting down $3500 cash.

    Honestly, my opinion is BMW’s are ripe for the taking right now – especially 3 series. They are even offering .9% APR financing.

    Check this out on there stock 335 sedan lease deal for a 36/10:
    $519 Monthly Payment Calculate Other Monthly Payments
    36 Month Term
    $0 Down Payment
    $0 Security Deposit
    10000 Annual Mileage
    Restrictions $0 Down Lease is based on a 2011 335i Sedan equipped with optional automatic transmission, Premium package and destination charge. MSRP as equipped is $45,500. $1,754 Dealer contribution and $1,305 Option Credit are required for the $519 monthly payment. Must finance through BMW Financial Services. See participating dealer for details.
    Comments $519 due at signing. Dealer participation may vary. Incentives and Rebates are provided subject to the terms of our Visitor Agreement. Tax, tags and insurance are extra.

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22. Also – You have to pay that BMW Bank Fee of $725 – that’s standard. For my friend, we rolled it into his lease payments. I did the same with my 2010 Honda Accord that I leased in July.

    I think I calculated that if we paid that amount upfront, he would have saved ~ $90 over the lease term.

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23. Hi G,

    Thanks for your website. I am new to leases so it has been extremely helpful!!! Here is what I was offered today on a 328i xdrive:

    MSRP: $41,265
    Sale Price: $38,965
    AQ fee: 925
    Document fee: $75

    Tax: 6.875%
    Title/Lic: $499

    Residual factor: 64%
    MF: .00165

    No security deposit. Total upfront cost including first payment: $2,283.76
    Monthly payment: $483.85

    What are your thoughts and where can I push further? I’m waiting on another quote from another dealer.

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    • Nick, I am glad to hear the site has been instrumental to your leasing research!
      Your AQ is high, BMW’s AQ is $725, not $925. The dealer is known to pad this by $200, so be sure let them know you know better.
      Doc fee works for me, $75 is much lower than a lot of people are paying.
      Residual is right if you are going for a sedan at 36mo/10k OR a coupe for 36mo/12k. Since you didn’t state what you’re leasing, I am not sure.
      Money factor is high, for either a sedan or coupe. Sedan is 0.00125 and coupe is 0.0016. As mentioned in other comments, BMWFS is offering no security deposit right now, so you should qualify for the base rate without the need to pay a deposit. If you aren’t getting the base rate then your dealer is either padding it for profit OR you don’t have good enough credit to get the base rate. I’m inclined to say it’s the former because you probably haven’t had your credit run and your initial quote already contains a padded MF. Be sure to point that out to a dealer.
      Your sale price is pretty close to what most dealer are offering for that car, which is between Invoice and $500 over Invoice.

      As a sedan, your payments should be around $482 a month, with $499 + $75 + 1st month payment or $1056. NOT $2283. You are basically paying an extra $1200 some dollars for things that the dealer hasn’t not disclosed to you.
      As a coupe, you are looking at $507 a month, with $499 + $75 + 1st month or $1081. Even if we taxed your drive-off fees, we would still not be anywhere near the $2283 they want from you up front, so I recommend finding out why there’s such a discrepancy.

      Good luck!

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24. Hey G — thanks for your efforts on this site, they have proved invaluable to me!

    There were some complications with my lease because I live in CA (consulting), but my legal and permanent address is in NJ. That said, I went with a dealership in NJ that I have dealt with before. They matched the $300 over invoice I was looking for, and they were up front about the correct money factor (.00145). The order for my car is in — I feel MUCH better now!

    The fees are as follows (they wouldn’t budge on service or maco fee…none of the dealerships I spoke with even considered it):

    Took your advice — MSDs, rather than down payment — I’m glad I listened to you!

    36 Months 15k/year
    MSRP: $49,190
    Selling Price (With Dest, MACO and Training): $46,122
    Bank Fee: $725
    NJ Motor Vehicle Fees: $354.00
    NJ Supplemental Tax: $184.49
    NJ Tire Tax Fee: $6.00
    Dealer Doc Fee (NJ has no cap, but based on others who have purchased in NJ, this is about average): $239

    Total Inception: $6297 (7 Security Deposits ($4200) and tax on fees inc.)
    Money Factor: .00096
    NJ Sales Tax: 7%
    Monthly Payment: $588.70
    Added bonus that I get $4k back after my lease!

    Thanks for everything Jon and G!

    – Brian

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    • Congrats Brian! Glad you got the MSDs instead. It’ll save you a good chunk of change in the long haul so it’s a smart move. Still not a fan of the MACO/Training, but it’s okay because you have a low MF that should help offset some costs. Congrats again and send me some car pics my way! LOL

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25. What about purchasing a 328i sedan in CA? Do you have to pay Maco and training/service fee which equals about $580 or is that extra padding?

    I’m in negotiations now and don’t want to pay more than I need to.

    Thanks.

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    • Mary, the MACO/Training fees are extra fluff that is being charged. It doesn’t matter if you buy or lease, the dealer will usually try to pass that on to you. There are dealer in CA that will not charge that MACO/Training fees, so we know that this isn’t as “mandatory” as they make it seem. I also know that brokers do not charge this fee either, so there is always that option if dealing with your local dealer becomes a hassle. Remember that the CA dealer doc fee is capped at $45 for leases and $55 for purchases.

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26. Brian,

    Nice work! I think that’s a pretty good deal. A sub-$600/month payment on a $50k car? Awesome.

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27. Great site.
    I just got offered 335xi coupe with Nav, Auto, Premium, HK, ipod, alarm for around 48000.
    lease was 550/month 36 month 12k miles 3600 down everything included.

    I have yet given him a counter offer.
    Is this a good deal already?
    Thanks

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    • Mookie, the 1st offer is rarely the best offer. You didn’t state the residual, money factor and what fees your paying so it’s hard to say what kind of deal you are really getting. I also don’t know what region you are in so my estimate may not fully apply to your area. With this in mind, here’s a quick estimate of what I think you should be playing.

      MSRP 51275
      SALE 46375
      RV 61%
      MF 0.00160
      MONTHLY $543 + tax
      DUE: $2000 (approx)

      The typical drive-off with 1st month for a car this price should be around $2000 give or take a few hundred. If you are paying $3600 up front, that means you are putting cap reduction. If you are gonna do that, ask your dealer about Multiple Security Deposits. That’s money you get back at the end of lease, with cap reduction, not so much. I recommend reading comments from previous posts in the BMW September/Oct section. Many folks have been in similar situation when it comes to down payments and I have tried hard to steer them away from that and move them towards MSDs instead. In your case, I recommend the same.

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28. Thanks, G.

    Anyone have an idea what a good purchase deal in So. Cal would be on a 328i sedan, nav, satellite, automatic, premium pack?

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    • Mary, in SoCal, you should expect about $500 over invoice. If the MSRP is around $42500, then your are looking at around $40140. This is the best price according to TrueCar.com. If you plan to buy, I wouldn’t be shopping for a 2011 since they are still relatively new and don’t get as much discounts as a 2010 model would.

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29. Thanks, G. Your help is very insightful.

    Not sure whether there ae 2010s still on the lots or at least that’s what I’m being told. In this economy and people holding off in buying big ticket items, I’d think there would be some.

    Any other helpful hints you can provide when purchasing?

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    • Your welcome Mary,
      If you plan to buy this month, wait until the end of the month. Dealer are usually more inclined to deal during that time in order to meet quotas. Right now there’s all low-interest financing available on 2011 so it isn’t too bad. You may also want to look into European delivery to save money and get a vacation out of it. You can save more money doing the Euro delivery because they discount you more on the vehicle. However, you have to go to Germany to “pick up” the car. BMW pays for all the shipping costs so it’s not much of a problem, taking time off to do this is another story. Here are a couple of links if you are interested:

      http://www.ridewithg.com/index.php/2009/04/european-delivery-anyone/
      http://www.bmwusa.com/site_layout/virtual/eurodeliv/overview.html

      Another option would be Certified Pre-Owned. Those are usually around 2-3 years old so the miles are low and the discounts are pretty big. They some time offer special financing on those as well so it’s worth a look.

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