My Take: Better late than never, right? Sorry, apparently, I forgot to post the A5/S5 rates for May. Lucky, you may still get a few days to use it. Thanks to Gerry for posting the question otherwise I would have never noticed. Money factors suck, residual so-so. Stick with the A5 unless you feel like pay a lot of money on interest. Better yet, if you are shopping for a S5, money shouldn’t really be an issue, should it? LOL. Hope you are all having a great weekend. I’m stuck with house cleaning and caretaker duties since the wife is out with a cold.
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2009 Audi A5/S5
2009 Audi A5 6-Speed Coupe
24-month | 15k miles | residual 56% | .00215 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 49% | .00215 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 42% | .00336 base money factor
2009 Audi A5 Tiptronic Coupe
24-month | 15k miles | residual 56% | .00215 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 49% | .00215 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 42% | .00336 base money factor
2009 Audi S5 6-Speed Coupe
24-month | 15k miles | residual 61% | .00316 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 54% | .00316 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 47% | .00336 base money factor
2009 Audi S5 Tiptronic Coupe
24-month | 15k miles | residual 61% | .00316 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 54% | .00316 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 47% | .00336 base money factor
My Take: There is $1500 in cash to dealer that is set to expire 6/30/09. If you want a Pilot right now, be sure to take that cash into consideration. Again, I’d like to remind you that DEALER CASH is not the same as CUSTOMER CASH. When it comes to CUSTOMER CASH, you are entitled to it, as for the DEALER CASH, that’s pretty much at dealer discretion. I often get questions regarding whether I can confirm the DEALER CASH, the reality is that I can’t. If the dealer needs to make the sale, they’ll tap into it. I usually advice that you take it into consideration when negotiating with your dealer, not by asking him/her for it directly, but by including it in your offer price. As far as the Pilot’s lease is concerned, the “Nav/RES” packages really drop the residual signinficantly so be careful with that. The Pilot may be a decent lease-to-buy because the financing APR isn’t very low (5.99% for 60 months). If you were to lease-to-buy a Touring model with Nav and RES for example, you would pay 3.624% on 55% of the car and then you would either payoff the remainder in a balloon payment or finance the rest (hopefully at an interest rate lower than 5.99%). If you manage to get an APR lower than 5.99% for the remaining 45% of the car’s value, you’ll probably save yourself a decent chunk of change.
My Take: I’m not digging the residual value on this ride. Way too low on the 36-month term. I am guessing Lexus is being more “realistic” with their residual values since many banks are getting nailed for inflating residual values (I’m looking at you Infiniti). In any case, the money factor, in my opinion, isn’t low enough to make it a great “Lease-to-Buy” candidate (3.24% APR). If you can secure a lower finance rate to buy this car, I would suggest doing that instead.
My Take: I guess I did have another lease rate before my trip! LOL Anyway, I had to do some “guesstimating” on the 24 month residuals, but the 36 month numbers should be right in line with what you are seeing at the dealers (hopefully). Remember, if you are getting different results from your local dealer, be sure to post them here for the rest of us. The residual values have dropped on the TL in May so AHFC dropped the money factors a bit. Payments should practically stay the same. Regarding pricing, I would not go beyond invoice. Period. If anything, I would try going $500-$1000 below, depending on your market. But this is just my opinion as a consumer. Remember, if you need help analyzing deals, I will need ALL of the information pertaining to the lease, not just MSRP, down payment and monthly payment.
My Take: Alright everyone, this is the last set of lease rates I have for now. I will in the Bay Area this weekend so my ability respond to your questions will be limited. I will post more rates if any of them show up between now and Friday, but until then, I hope what we currently have will hold you guys over until I return. 
My Take: The 6-series for both 2009 and 2010 are pretty decent leases right now simply because the residual values are pretty high. You can probably drop them down a bit by using MSDs instead of cap cost reduction so be sure to opt for that instead. Another thing I want to stress, make sure you PAY off your inception fees INCLUDING the Acquisition fee. Many times, the Acquisition fee is rolled into the lease loan. Not a good idea since that is probably the largest of all inception fees. So you will be paying taxes AND interest on the largest fee of the bunch. Bad idea. Ask the dealer to identify all your inception fees, have him/her total them including applicable taxes and cut a check for that. As far as which one I would lease, I would probably opt for a 2009 model even if the money factor on the 2010 is only .00010 more than the 2009. I think the 2010 will have a higher base price anyway, so you might as well stick with the 09s since the residuals are practically identical.
My Take: This is an okay lease for May. Not sure I’d call it a good lease-to-buy right now since I would have preferred a sub .00100 money factor since the residual drops below 50% after 3 years. However, I’m sure that’s not something a sizable discount on the sale price can’t fix.