My Take: Bummer dudes and dudettes, 2010 E-Class is unleasable right now. I saw a coupe rolling on the freeway this past weekend and I like it! Now if it’s too much for your blood, then I would suggest looking into the 09 E-Class. I’m told there are some really nice purchase incentive going on right now. Also check into the demos, they are heavily discounting those and I believe special financing can be obtained on them as well.
Check out the new LIST for some sample payment calculations.
2010 Mercedes E-Class
2010 Mercedes E350 Coupe
24-month | 15k miles | residual 62% | .00382 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 57% | .00347 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 48% | .00347 base money factor
60-month | 15k miles | residual 40% | .00395 base money factor
2010 Mercedes E350 Luxury
24-month | 15k miles | residual 61% | .00275 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 56% | .00270 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 45% | .00270 base money factor
60-month | 15k miles | residual 37% | .00395 base money factor
2010 Mercedes E350 Sport
24-month | 15k miles | residual 61% | .00275 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 56% | .00270 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 45% | .00270 base money factor
60-month | 15k miles | residual 37% | .00395 base money factor
2010 Mercedes E550 Coupe
24-month | 15k miles | residual 60% | .00382 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 55% | .00347 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 46% | .00347 base money factor
60-month | 15k miles | residual 38% | .00395 base money factor
2010 Mercedes E550 Luxury
24-month | 15k miles | residual 58% | .00275 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 53% | .00270 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 42% | .00270 base money factor
60-month | 15k miles | residual 34% | .00395 base money factor
2010 Mercedes E550 Sport
24-month | 15k miles | residual 58% | .00275 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 53% | .00270 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 42% | .00270 base money factor
60-month | 15k miles | residual 34% | .00395 base money factor
I am getting the following lease on a 2010 E350.
Palladium Silver w/ dark/burnt orange interior
options:
-metallic paint
-dark/burnt orange sport interior
-premium 1 + 2 pkg
-3 spoke sterring wheel pkg
MSRP: 58,885
Selling price: 54,885
36 month…60% residual…12k per year
4% interest applied (even though it was only offered through financing) convinced them to use for lease 4.99% interest rate finance special includes 1% dealer reserve markup so I got the 1% as well.
tax: 6.25% in texas assessed
Zero down out of pocket…just required bank fees.
$737 per month.
What do you think?
@matthew. Considering the MF is much higher and this is so such a new car that you’d be lucky to get a few grand off, you did well. Then factor in the fact that you are leasing in Texas, I think that’s not a bad deal at all. The 09 would probably run you less though, but I like the 2010 better personally.
G, should I pull it if they can get the payment to under $700, while keeping everythign else equal.
Personally, I actually think its a steal considering its an almost 60K car with no money down kept for 3 years…at under $750 a month.
@matthew. My guess is that if they can drop another $1000 off the sale price, then you can hit that sub-$700 mark. I’m not 100% sure they would do on a 2010 model though. I think the deal is not bad considering you were able to drop the MF considerably, so I would do the deal if you felt comfortable with it. I will say this though, this probably isn’t the lowest this car will go, so don’t be shocked to see the numbers improve as the months go by.
My brother works in the business and was telling me rule of thumb is simple on leases…
you want to less for 36-39 months…no money down and about 12k miles per year. Whatever your MSRP is for your car, your payment needs to be 1% of that or as close to 1% as you can get it no matter how they work the numbers. If you get it around 1%-1.2% of the MSRP, its a HELL of a good deal.
@matthew. your brother is on the dot. if you can get with 1% of the MSRP price, that’s a fantastic deal. Unfortunately, most cars are usually around 1.2%-1.3% now, and THAT is considered a good deal. Last month’s C350 was around 1%, which is was an awesome deal. It also seems like the E350 is at 0.9% before taxes are factored in, that is damn good too. BTW, thanks for the comment. I’ve been meaning to write a quick guide about how to spot the good deals using this method. I think it works well.
Hi G, The Benz dealer has an 09 E350 sport sedan with Prem 1, retail is 56,775.00 offering me for 41,494, What would a lease payment be for 36 months 10k per year. I would pay tax and fees up front.My Md tax is 6 % and is based on total of lease payments and is paid up front. Thanks,Wayne.
@wayne. $509 if you pay your inception fees and taxes upfront. $582 if you roll the taxes into the lease and pay the inception fees. Personally, I think the E350 is damn good this month, even as a lease. A 2010 will run you upwards of $700+.
G I cannot find the money facotrs for the 2009 E class leases???
@wayne. 36k miles/3 years, residual 45%, MF: 0.00165 . Take off 2% residual if you go with 15k miles per year. I’ll try to crunch some numbers for you later in the day. sorry, day job is busy today 😛
G – Is the money factor higher for European Delivery? I was discussing a 2010 E550 with Premium 1 and 2, Sports, metallic paint, park assist. They’re quoting me a money factor of 0.00340 with standard Euro Delivery price (7% off US MSRP). Lease came out at $1031 with zero cap reduction. Seems outrageous. Thoughts?
I leased a 2009 E350 today as follows:
MSRP – 57,085 (Prem I, Sport, Woodgrain)
Selling price – $43,585 (10,000 MB cash + 3,500 off)
.00165
36mos./15K (43%)
398 doc fees
795 gap ins.
$0 down
$710.19.
@mitch. seems really outrageous to me too. This is the first time I’ve heard of mfs going up just for Euro Delivery. Seems a bit odd. Ask for the base rate and see what they tell you.
@lee. I’m confused with you residual. I thought the 15k mile lease was supposed to be at 45%, not 43%. Lastly, is your drive off just gap + doc fee? Everything else rolled into lease?
Also do you know the residuals for a 7500 mile lease. The dealer was quoting me the same residual above for a 7500 mile lease. Would have thought residual would be higher?
@mitch. banks don’t have special residuals for leases below 10k, that is why they kept you at the 10k residual.
BTW quote I am referring to is for 42 month, 7500 miles per year.
I have made a deal, with the local MB dealer in my state. (michigan). The car is 53421. its a e350 sedan.
This is the number they have come up with in my lease $2518.87 down my payment is 723.11 a month for 48 months. Does anyone think this is a decent deal. It with 12000 miles per year. i think they are giving me the car for 49000. Let me know what you can work up.
Thanks
@Daniel. That looks awfully high if you ask me. IS the 53421 MSRP and the 49000 the sale price? Also Is this 2010 or 2009? With 2009s, you can knock of anywhere from 13500 to 15000 off that MSRP. I wouldn’t pull the trigger on it unless it was around that much.
@Matthew
How did you get a 60% residual? Mine is at 47%?
Thats a good deal.
Its for a 2010 E350 sedan. i was told i was getting it for 49000. the msrp is 53421.
The dealer first quoted me 749.11 per month for 48 month lease with 12000 miles per year. with 1800 out of pocket. Than i said it was to much and they can with 723.00 per month for 48 months, 12000 per year.
@daniel. with the 2010 models, 8% off MSRP isn’t too bad, but the lease rates this month are far from ideal. If you are not hurting to get into a car right now, I would suggest that you wait. The payments are way too high for a 48-month lease in my option.
Here in michigan i have been quoted high monthly payment for the 2010 e350 sedan.
Well i went to another dealer and he got me at 717.99 for 36 month with 10,000 miles. With $2,100 out of pocket. What do you think?
I was told the 2010 E350 are leasing at 900 a month for 36 months. I do need to get out of my lease. but i just wonder how long before they come out with a better lease deal?
@daniel. I still think its a bit expensive, BUT it is much better than the previous deal. The problem is that the discount is probably pretty good, but the money factors are not. Did the dealer specify what the sale price, residual and money factor are? The published MF for the E350 is .00270 or 6.48% APR. The current financing promo is 4.9% for up to 66 months. Buying IS better and cheaper in the long run.
well do you think if the money factors get better, that the payment would be the same without the discount? or would they balance out?
@daniel. the money factors should improve down the road, the question is when. Chances are, the residual will drop some as the money factors drop. As far the discount is concerned, I don’t think it will change too much unless they start selling the 2010 Es like hot cakes. Since it doesn’t seem like the dealer is using any promotional rebates, the only way for them to go as low as they have is to share some of that holdback with you. My opinion is that right now is a bit early to be leasing the 2010 E-Class because they are rather new and there aren’t any extra “incentives” that sweeten the deal. However, for the month, your quote is fairly reasonable. If the sale price and residual stays the same and the money factor drops, you will probably save money. If the sale price stays while the residual and MF drops, then you will probably break even. If they miraculously raise the sale price and the residual and MF drops, you’ll probably have to pay more. Make no mistake, you will be taking a chance, but I think the risk is relatively low that you’ll pay more later since there’s no lease support on this car right now.
Thank for the advise and comments. i am going to wait a few to see what happens.
how are these guys getting these prices, what am i doing wrong thxx for any help in advance
ad is 699+tax
$7,609 total drive off
sticker 53 k
10 k miles
36 months
how do i get matthew and daniels deal?
@george. Ouch, 7.6k due at driveoff???? I don’t really need to tell you this is a bad idea. Remember the less you put upfront, the better. Ideally, $0 drive off would be awesome as long as the payments are still within a reasonable range. Start by finding out what all the fees are (so you if they are reasonable or not). Then you negotiate a 7-8% discount off the sticker price. If you can tap into that 10% off MSRP range, that would be great. Then find out the lease rates used to calculate the deal. Just because I post them here, doesn’t mean that’s what you are being quoted. Padding numbers isn’t exactly uncommon. Final thought, I’m not recommending the 2010 Es right now. Just the 2009. 2010 money factors are way too high for my tastes. Any major discount you are saving is pretty much being repaid in the interest of the loan. So why lease now? Thats my question.
im going to call every dealership in tx and mich and try to get same deal those guys got
thx
res59% mf.00370
http://www.autobahnmotors.com/specials/index.htm
thats the link
$5645
down at lease signing.
$800 license fee
$699 pament
=
$7600 total drive off.
dealer told me
res59% mf.00370
10k miles
are they lieing, does it match up what do i do?
they called me back
sticker$57644
he can give it to me for
sticker$57000
monthly payment$946.88
down pament $4550
+ fees
total drive off $6700
15k miles
half point for dealer so mf is .00275
residual 56%
36 months
alot more then
matthew and daniels deal
whats the catch?
@george. try to make an offer instead of letting them offer you a price. Try to offer them a price. That way you can eliminate the useless quotes. If you let them offer you a price, you will more than likely get this kind of offer. Tell them 10% off sticker price. No money down. If they balk, then try that with someone else. The MF and residual look right in line with the banks numbers. Remember, the key is the sale price. That’s where you save the most money.
As for Autobahn Motors. That’s a freaking insulting offer. No one should ever put 7600 at drive-off on a lease, ever.
Thx for getting back to me
They won’t go down on sticker. Car just came out 2 dealerships. Told me that
I spoke with Aaron who you know we talked about you, he told me e is so smart when it cones to cars it’s a joke. He said you have so much information. It drives the dealerships crazy I’m happy I found this site
I told Aaron I want p2 2010 e350 msrp $58k
I want under 800 5k out of pcket
He also told mr those other guys deals ate not true and are a waste of my time trying to get thy price because it can’t be done on 2010
does Matthew or daneil have any proof that they got this price. It would really help me thx
@George. LOL. true, some dealers generally don’t like what I’m doing here, thats’ for sure. Aaron is a good guy though, he understand what I am all about and what I’m trying to do here. The reason I push for low sale prices is because it’s a buyers market. When it becomes a sellers market, you’ll be lucky to get $500 bucks off certain models. When the MINI’s were hot last summer, my advice is totally different. You couldn’t get a MINI for anything lower than MSRP. Now, paying MSRP would be right down silly. Anyway, as for your quest for the 2010 E350, if you want my honest opinion, I think you are overpaying no matter how many dealers you shop for. Aaron’s right, the car is new so pricing is not going to be very aggressive and will probably be like that for a few months. I say sit tight and wait. Keep an eye out on the lease rates that come out every month, when more reasonable numbers show up, I’ll be sure to point it out.
Now just to give you an idea as to how the lease is working out here’s a quick example:
MSRP $58k
Sale $58k
MF .00270
RV 56% (15k per year)
Monthly (pre-tax) $953
Your inception fees are due at signing. That means bank acquisition fee, dealer documentation fee, tire, tax, title, tags, first month payment. That’s probably going to be $2500-$3000 due at signing. Don’t forget the GAP insurance.
Per your request, you wanted to pay $5k at signing, that means about $2000-$2500 goes into cap reduction. With a $2500 reduction, you will be paying about $876 per month before taxes. Still well above your target price of under $800 after tax. So there are only four ways you can lower this payment more: 1) more cap reduction (not a good idea). 2) lower your yearly mileage allowance, thus increasing the residual value which makes the loan smaller. 3) Lower the sale price. 4) Multiple Security Deposits.
You can do a combination of these options in order to lower the payments. But other than this, there is no other way to get exactly the payment you want.
Oh forgot to answer you other question. The 53k msrp and 50k sale price model should run you about $780 before taxes with no money down. My guess is that your inception fees will be around $2500 and you will use $2500 for cap reduction and taxes associated to that reduction, so around $703+tax.
My local dealer told me p1 sticker is 53k
they can give it to me for 50
what should the payment. Be with the lease calculator?
I tryed to hard for me to calculate
thxx
ok now 2010 p2
5kdown
$850 with tax included
10k miles
36 months
your a info machine
getting car tomorrow
10k miles
$4500 out of pocket
870 tax included
58k car
p2
white tan pano roof
paktonic upgade wheels
40/60 split seat
what you think?
@George. LOL. Seems like you want the car bad. Well, I still think its a bit pricey, but a $500 improvement from before. Makes you wonder how much more you can knock off though. Hope that you putting multiple security deposits instead of money down. If it’s cap reduction, drive and park the car some place safe 🙂
well this is a diff dealership
“Hope that you putting multiple security deposits instead of money down. If it’s cap reduction, drive and park the car some place safe ”
umm can you explain?
im giving them $4500 off my debit card
what should i do?
multiple security deposits buy down the money factor, which in turn, lowers your monthly payments. Not as drastically as putting a down payment thought. the difference is that MSDs are refunded at the end of your lease. money you put down does not. In the event of a total-loss collision or theft, your down payment does not get refunded. Your multiple security deposits do. kind of like buying points when you are getting a mortgage, except you get the money back once you fulfill your loan obligations.
so you get all the money back at the end and it drops your payment
thats what i wanna do
but it sounds to good to be true?
plenty of people do it. just remember that it doesn’t drop the payments as much as a straight cap reduction. Say for example. BMW lessees pay $500 per .00007 points reduced from their money factor. That’s about 0.168% reduction per $500 you put down. You put $2500, that’s about a 0.84% reduction on your interest rate. To calculate the APR of the money factor you are being charged. Multiply the money factor (.0027) by 2400. In this case, it is 6.48% APR. This is the preferred method over straight cap reduction. Poke around the leasing 101 section when you get a chance, there’s a lot of good info there.
one more thing …
the wheels i dont want . there chaging me i believe like 900?
any way to tell them to take off?
Each 1k I put down is $27. Change on payment For 36 months is that correct
I really dont want these wheels i will be putting on aftermarket wheels
@George. What you are doing is cap reduction. Cap reduction reduces payments about $25-30 per month for every $1000 you put down. I think think MSDs is more like 1/3 of that, but you get your money back at the end of your lease.
If you put new rims, then you will need to keep your stock ones. You will have to return the car stock once your lease expires.
Do you get all your money back?
Do I do it thru the dealership ?
In that case I rather do that I’ll give him a call now thx
1 more q. Thx or allllll ur help
I’m getig 10k miles. What should the residual be. And I assume the mf is the same correct?
@George. You will get your security deposits back at lease end through the bank. The dealer is just a middleman in the transaction in a sense. Dealer will arrange everything for you, so you should call them and tell them that instead of doing cap reduction, you want to do multiple security deposits to lower the money factor.
For 10k miles per year, you add 3% to the published 15k per year residual. In this case, 59%. The MF remains unchanged (unless you put security deposits).
ok
$56,292
36-month | 7.5 k miles | residual 60% | .00270 base money factor
4500 out of pocket
payment=850
is that correct?
u r so helpful wow..
thx
@george. i think the dealer is just playing with numbers at this point. the end result is not what I call significant. It is pretty clear there is no deal on this car. The payment lowers, but it is coming at an expense of less miles. I don’t really think this offer going anywhere. At this point you have to tell yourself, “how much do I want it?”. Unless you are willing to wait, all the quotes you keep getting from them are just going to look like a variation of the same thing. I am a deal hunter when it comes to auto leasing, so my final verdict on this car is that it’s too expensive to lease right now and I cannot in good conscience tell you otherwise. However, the final decision, is yours.
Thx very much
I’ll let u know what I do
I guess Kenneth & Daniel deals are fake.
@george. no problem, definitely keep us posted on what you end up doing. btw, its also possible for matthew and daniel’s deals to be different because they are in a different market. or maybe their dealers are really struggling and have to move some units.
Yo g. Wanna let u know I got car yesterday -panarama roof. 4.5 down 36 mo ths 10k miles 777. With tax includes. I was shooting at the begining for 5k 800 I beat that pretty good
U helps me alot thx very much g
Car is hott.
@george. congrats on the new ride! Love the new e-class! I’m glad to see you managed to squeeze out more cash out of your dealer! very nice. This definitely in an major improvement from all the other deals you were quoted. Congrats! I wanna see pics! 🙂
hey G
what do u think about the fact that dealers bend wayyyy more at end of month …
well its true i ealized it last night they were doin everthing i asked…
@george. Yeah, a lot of dealers need to meet sales numbers so they might be more willing to discount in order to move cars. It is generally a good idea to wait until that last couple days to pull the trigger if you are dealing with a dealer that is playing hardball.
Hey George, congrats.
The number i posted are real. I had to fight hard and persuede them for those number. The car price i was quoted those number for was $53,425.00.
The first dealer i went to called me this week to give me a no money down, sign and drive for $725 per month 48 months, which i dont want with 10000 miles. I told them it was tempting with the no money down, but i dont want the car for 48 months.
George Email me pictures of your car. e350(at)comcast.net. EDITED TO AVOID SPAM 🙂