My Take: The A5 looks much better in the 2.0 trim than in the 3.2. Things may be looking up for the A5, finally. The MF still needs a little work, but if you insist on getting into one, MSDs baby. That’s my recommendation. MSDs seem to be arbitrary, just because one dealer doesn’t want to offer it, does not mean all of them won’t. Check around.
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2010 Audi A5
2010 Audi A5 2.0L Premium
24-month | 15k miles | residual 63% | .00196 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 56% | .00196 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 49% | .00269 base money factor
2010 Audi A5 2.0L Premium Plus
24-month | 15k miles | residual 60% | .00196 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 53% | .00196 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 46% | .00269 base money factor
2010 Audi A5 2.0L Prestige
24-month | 15k miles | residual 58% | .00196 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 51% | .00196 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 44% | .00269 base money factor
2010 Audi A5 3.2L Premium Plus
24-month | 15k miles | residual 61% | .00242 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 54% | .00242 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 47% | .00269 base money factor
2010 Audi A5 3.2L Prestige
24-month | 15k miles | residual 59% | .00242 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 52% | .00242 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 45% | .00269 base money factor
2010 Audi S5
2010 Audi S5 Premium Plus
24-month | 15k miles | residual 66% | .00249 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 59% | .00249 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 52% | .00269 base money factor
2010 Audi S5 Prestige
24-month | 15k miles | residual 63% | .00249 base money factor
36-month | 15k miles | residual 56% | .00249 base money factor
48-month | 15k miles | residual 49% | .00269 base money factor
Acoording to the S5 premium plus numbers….it is possible for me to get a $58K sticker S5 automatic for $800-$850 a month after taxes with nothing down.
@akber. probably not. In order for that to happen, you would need to knock off at least $2000 off the MSRP and opt for the 12k mile per year. Even with that, it would only put you at around $850 before taxes. I don’t think Audi is gonna discount another $2000 off the MSRP on a 2010 model right now to be honest. You would probably need to knock off $4k from the MSRP in order to meet your price range and you might even have to drop down to 10k miles per year, but i think that might be tough so early in the model year.
what is MSD?
Doesn’t look terrible this month. So assuming you’re on a 12k per year lease it’s a 4 year of 54% and a three year at 61%? I wouldn’t say that getting a 2000 discount is that difficult. Dealers are willing to move at that although 4k sounds a little far fetched considering I doubt Audi is throwing any money at Audi dealers on the S5 (would cut close to their margin on a car they don’t necessarily need to cut that close on). As dumb as it sounds I didn’t realize that Audi even offered MSDs.
The 48 still blows away the 36 regardless of the money factor.
Yes you are right…they are willing ti discount $3000 off sticker price. Thats how i came up with $800 a month
Problem is its a color combo im not big on. Meteor gray with brown automatic premium plus… loaded around $58000 msrp….selling price $55000 even. my choice was metero gray with magma red.
10k miles per year…0 down. %61 or 62% residisual is what they told me..forget which one. 36 months….And have it registered in california adress instead of texas to save total tax payment amount.
wow i just did the 48 month lease…its $750 with taxes! Andrew is right! 48months is very attractive.
you have to get $3000 discount off the MSRP…but it is very possible to get this car for under $900 with taxes included.
the thing about 48-month leases is having to buy tires for the car. If you don’t put too many miles or drive too aggressively, you can go through 36 months with the original set of tires and probably won’t need to replace them. At 48-months, you are guaranteed to replace them. I’ve been on two 48-month leases and had to replace tires on both cars at around 40 months.
In texas this car would cost me $100/year in registration
California cost will be $700/year in registration. However the sales tax on the car lease will be cheaper than texas becasue it is only assessed on the amount you use the car, whereas texas assesses it on the entire value of the car.
What is a better way to go?
@akber. Somehow, I’m thinking it would be cheaper in TX for some reason. Here’s why, if you do a 48-month lease, that means you’ll pay around $400 in Texas. Let us assume your sales tax in Texas is 7%…that would be $3850 on a $55,000 car. That would put you are roughly $4250 for both registration and sales tax. In CA, your DMV registration over 4 years is $2800. Depending on where you live, your sales tax is anywhere from 8.25% to about 9.75%. Now let us assume your monthly payments are around $680 per month before taxes. At 9.75%, your monthly tax is $66.3 and over 4 years, it would be $3182.4…for a grand total of $5982.40. Why so much? In CA sales tax is charged after you factor in the financing, so you are paying taxes on the base payment AND the financing cost of leasing the vehicle. Bummer huh? The upside is that in CA, we don’t pay so much up front, but over the life of the lease, we pay more. Now if you roll in your taxes into your lease loan in TX, then you will end up paying more than in CA.
Hopefully, I calculated this right. 😀
I followed your explanation, however its still confusing. I am opting to do a 36month lease instead of the 48. My concern is like anyone elses – what is my total out of pocket on the car. Whatever ends up giving me the lowest out of pocket is what I want to shoot for…
monthly payment, taxes and registration are the three main numbers obviously…whether the money is taken up front or rolled in the lease doesnt affect my purchasing decision. Its what I will have paid out of my pocket for the car that matters to me.
I followed your explanation, however its still confusing. I am opting to do a 36month lease instead of the 48. My concern is like anyone elses – what is my total out of pocket on the car. Whatever ends up giving me the lowest out of pocket is what I want to shoot for…
monthly payment, taxes and registration are the three main numbers obviously…whether the some portion is taken up front or rolled in the lease doesnt affect my purchasing decision. Its what I will have paid out of my pocket for the car that matters to me.
@akber. sorry for the confusion. Essentially what I am saying is that depending on how you handles the taxes, you may come out ahead in Texas instead of CA. If you plan to finance your taxes in TX, you will pay more every month than in CA. If you pay that taxes upfront in TX and keep it out of the lease loan, you will pay less than in CA. Another thing you should check with your dealer or tax adviser about is how sales taxes are handled when you sell a car and buy a new one. I remember being told that you won’t be charged 100% of the cars value in taxes on the 2nd car or something. I’m not an accountant nor am I too familiar about sales taxes in TX, but look into it.
I will be at $803/month incl. tax for 36 months for an automatic S5 with B&0, Nav, premmium pkg leasing through VW credit.
Pentagon federal credit union offers this “balloon payment saver lease-type finance setip” where this same car would be:
$702 month incl tax for 36 months. And then a balance of $35,300 is due. (This is the balloon payment/residual that they determine is due at the end. Whether I sell the car or refinance it after the last payment, that amount is what I have to pay.
what do you think?
@akber. balloon payments is like leasing, but you can’t walk away from the car at lease end. You are forced to buy it. Some banks like BMWFS offer that, but I would advice against it. It looks attractive, but you, the consumer, assume the loss in depreciation instead of the bank.
Thanks G. If i went with this balloon payment type option, I think i will be in a neutral or positive situation on an S5. The value for this car is holding up pretty well looking at the last couple years.
Even if i am in a negative situation when the balloon is due, i dont think i will be out of pocket much more than a couple thousand. I do think someone will give me about $32000 for the car after 3 years.
Or i could go the straight leasing method through VW/Audi credit. Another option i found out about was through http://www.leasefax.com They have a New silver S5 automatic 2009 loaded automatic model(last 09 from this placce) that they are doing for $850+ tax per month for 36 months. The owner says its his own company; bought the car and would go through his bank to lease? Any ideas on this setup? thanks again.
@akber. the problem about assuming depreciation is that you are also assuming it if you car gets into an accident. So say your balloon payment is due and you had some body work down on the car, do you think your car would be worth the balloon payment then? Probably not. This is your call however, just think carefully as to what the risks are.
I’m not sure I would lease that 09 at this point. I’d feel more comfortable leasing through AFS personally.
You are right. Initially audi dealer was giving me 2010 S5 auto $58750 car for $55000 selling price but now backed out of it and didnt want to do the deal with additional MSD’s saying there is no such thing, so I said no deal.
I am getting another dealer who MAY do the deal…the selling price is tentative. Everything else is as follows that finance director has agreed on:
62month residual 10K miles 0.00249 – 9MSD at 0.00005 each= 0.00204money factor (4.90% interest)
ALL taxes up front..so based on $55,000 selling price, taxes total $3437.50 (6.25% in tx) and all have to be paid or rolled in. I elected to pay all up front.
The registration/license/title is $150 total for the year.
$800 acquisition fee
Due at signing (0 downpayment + first months payment + taxes: 0+ 833.62 + 3437.50= $4271.12
monthly payment thereafter: $707.05
again, i am waiting confirmation from them to accept selling price. Also they have just said they will lock in this months residuals and numbers and between now and the time the car comes in. If the next 3 months numbers are better, then I can opt to get those but this months numbers are locked in for me If i order the car.
what do you think G?
@akber. if you can get the 55k selling price, I would say go for it. one thing to clarify…you are on not on a 62-month lease right?
no it is 36 month lease.
62% residual 36month lease
cool. let me know if u end up getting the car. would love to see some pics!!
Well it would have to be an order car. They dont have any meteor gray/magam red with carbon fiber under $60K car anywhere in my state including half of the united states. Most of the 2010’s are all 63k-66k cars.
I will definitely post pics once i receive it assuming i get confirmation for the price I asked for which is $500 over invoice. I hope they do it so i can order asap.